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Colombia by Bike: A Winter Escape Unlike Any Other

Written by : Clément Boës

Are you searching for your next cycling adventure? While winter still holds over the province of Quebec, the allure of escaping to sunny climes for a few days or weeks calls to many of us. Colombia, though not typically the first destination that comes to mind, boasts numerous advantages: its verdant mountains, winding high-altitude roads, and vibrant cycling culture make it an ideal getaway. It's not merely about fleeing the cold; it's about immersing yourself in an unparalleled cycling experience. For us, Medellín, Antioquia, and La Ceja weren't just places on a map; they marked the beginning of an adventure into the heart of a passionate cycling culture amidst awe-inspiring landscapes.

At the outset of this adventure, our group comprised two female members from the ECF team, four male counterparts from the Rocket Factory team, and myself. We embarked on this journey in pursuit of optimal conditions to prepare for the upcoming season. Colombia, renowned for its challenging terrain and favourable climate, proved to be the ideal training ground. Jacob, a seasoned traveller within our group, was on his third expedition to the region, which significantly aided our exploration and route selection. However, our expedition was not solely focused on the physical training. It marked a new odyssey, an immersion into a lesser-known Colombia, diverging from tourist clichés, where each pedal stroke brought us closer to the authentic essence of this captivating country.

Discover the Region by Bike: Medellín, Antioquia, La Ceja

For a two-week cycling destination, look no further than the Antioquia region! What inspired this choice of destination? Its exotic allure, uncharted territory, welcoming atmosphere for the cycling enthusiast, favorable weather conditions, and reasonable cost of living.

La Ceja

Upon arriving, we found ourselves drawn to the charming community of La Ceja, located approximately 50 kilometers from the bustling city of Medellin. Here, we discovered a spacious, fully-equipped house with a garden and terrace, perfectly suited for our planned cycling adventures, all at a very reasonable cost of just over CAD 2,500 for two weeks.

Embarking on a journey by bike always offers a delightful opportunity to explore a new region or country. The distances achievable in a single day allow for ample exploration of the area (typically ranging between 80 and 160 kilometers for our outings), while the pace of cycling enables us to fully immerse ourselves in the beauty of the landscapes and appreciate the diverse culture and geography of the region.

Surrounding Towns

One of the most typical and picturesque destinations to explore is the town of Guatape, renowned for its striking rock formation and vibrant, colorful houses. The scenic viewpoints dotted along the route to the town are equally captivating and well worth a stop!

The unique charm of villages like Sonson, La Concepcion, and Abejorral added a special touch to our memorable excursions. The local ambiance perfectly embodies the essence of South America - vibrant, authentic, and full of life. Each destination was as enchanting as the route itself during these three outings.

For shorter rides, navigating through the towns of La Ceja, La Union, and El Retiro provides an array of opportunities! While the terrain is generally hilly and requires a love for climbing, there are also sections of rolling roads for a more relaxed ride.

Medellín

While we didn't venture on a cycling excursion to Medellín, many local cyclists flock to this lively city to enjoy their favourite sport. Dubbed "the city of eternal spring" due to its consistently mild and pleasant climate, Medellín is nestled in the Aburrá Valley amid the central Andes of Colombia. With a population exceeding 2 million, navigating the city's density and the time it takes to escape can be a bit daunting. Situated in a basin, leaving the city requires conquering over 15 kilometers and ascending 700 meters—a challenging warm-up for locals but a thrilling descent to wrap up your ride. However, dealing with heavy traffic means it's wise to pick your training times thoughtfully to avoid getting stuck in exhaust fumes.

Aside from cycling, Medellín offers a unique atmosphere, and we highly recommend taking some time to explore the city's sights. Known for its ties to Pablo Escobar, neighborhoods like Communa 13 are particularly fascinating and shouldn't be missed by any curious tourist.

Colombian Roads

One of the first things that strikes you when you hit the local roads is the sheer number of cyclists. On our very first outing, just a day after our arrival, we couldn't help but wonder if there was a local event happening! It's quite remarkable—every 10 seconds or so, you encounter one (or more) cyclists. Road bikes, mountain bikes, hybrids, families, clubs, friends... they're all out there. It's truly extraordinary and quite different from what we're accustomed to on Quebec roads. Yet, it's also reassuring because even amidst the dense and sometimes intense traffic, you quickly realize that sharing the road is the norm here. Unlike back home, a honk doesn't necessarily signal annoyance or frustration; instead, it's often just a friendly heads-up of your presence, whether you're on two wheels or four. Depending on the situation, a honk might mean "I'm here," "I'm about to pass," or "I noticed you didn't see me." Of course, staying alert and cautious is always essential... accidents can happen!

In terms of road quality, we were pleasantly surprised! They're perfectly navigable even on a road bike. Before setting out, I had imagined rough gravel roads or poorly maintained surfaces. I must admit, I was mistaken. The road sides are generally in good condition, with ample space. However, as you ride along, you'll quickly learn to watch where you place your wheels, as there can be quite a bit of debris on the sides. Despite not being particularly prone to flat tires, I encountered three punctures during my two weeks there, including two on a single outing—a good reminder always to carry a repair kit.

Tracing the Roads of Colombian Cycling Icons

Colombia has produced some of the world's most celebrated cyclists. Those who have been in the sport for a while will fondly recall the legendary Luis Herrera, whose legacy paved the way for many of today's Colombian climbers. Among them are Egan Bernal, the first and only Colombian to clinch victory in the Tour de France, along with renowned names like Nairo Quintana, Rigoberto Uran, and sprinter Fernando Gaviria. It's not uncommon to encounter fans proudly donning the replica jerseys of their cycling idols. For enthusiasts of Strava, it's also a source of motivation to ride the same roads (albeit not at the same pace) as some of the biggest names in the cycling world.

Ventured Cycling Routes

Below you’ll find the different routes we set out on, all originating from the town of La Ceja. Positioned at the base of the renowned La Union climb, a favourite among locals, we were perfectly situated for our cycling endeavours. Naturally, most of these routes could be adjusted to accommodate varying durations, whether shorter or longer, and could even omit a climb if needed. However, it's crucial to always keep in mind the concept of altitude variance, which greatly differs from what we're accustomed to in Quebec!

La Ceja - Rionegro - El Retiro : 104kms / 1666m d+ / https://www.strava.com/activities/8743624217
Aeropuerto - Santa : 99kms / 2053m d+ / https://www.strava.com/activities/8747422027
Guatapé : 115kms / 1740m d+ / https://www.strava.com/activities/8754673928
Abejorral : 105kms / 2930m d+ / https://www.strava.com/activities/8760402523
Sonsón : 142kms / 3000m d+ / https://www.strava.com/activities/8770861879
Aeropuerto & El Retiro : 87kms / 1750m d+ / https://www.strava.com/activities/8776861431
La Concepción : 171kms / 3220m d+ / https://www.strava.com/activities/8782899190

Practical Tips for Riding in Colombia: Conditions, Weather, and Altitude

March in Colombia sets the scene for optimal training conditions, with temperatures hovering around a pleasant 20 degrees Celsius. Mornings tend to be a bit cooler, around 15 degrees, while afternoons warm up to a comfortable 20-25 degrees. This means you can comfortably wear bib shorts all day and simply layer up top with a long sleeve jersey or arm warmers for those cooler temperatures.

Now here’s one thing to bear in mind – expect rain almost daily! While the rain may vary in intensity, from heavy downpours to light showers, it's essential to be prepared. That's why many cyclists always pack a full-body rain suit—because you never know when the heavens will open up, even on the sunniest of days. To dodge the deluge, we found it best to hit the road bright and early, as the rain tends to roll in during the early afternoon. So, aim to start your rides between 7 and 8 am and wrap up around 1 pm to stay dry.

Post-ride rituals are just as important as the ride itself. After a solid session, nothing beats indulging in a "menu del dia" on a terrace followed by a lazy afternoon at home—washing clothes, bit of bike maintenance, stretching out those tired muscles, and maybe making a quick trip to town for groceries or supplies.

It's entirely possible to hire a motorcycle "follower" to accompany you throughout your ride. Aside from fulfilling a safety role, either leading or trailing the group, they can also carry repair kits, food, and extra clothing.

For just a few dozen dollars, it's a worthwhile investment! We opted for this service twice on longer days, and it proved invaluable. Our two guides were incredibly friendly and dedicated, always making sure we had everything we needed, whether it was a snack or a drink during breaks. When you're on the bike for more than 5 hours, having someone to share the load is a game-changer. Plus, it's an excellent opportunity to brush up on your Spanish and gain insights into local life throughout the day.

Altitude is undoubtedly a factor to consider, especially during the initial days. La Ceja sits at an altitude of 2200m, and in those first few warm-up rides, you'll likely find yourself gasping for breath while your legs still have plenty of juice left. It's simply your body adjusting to the lower oxygen levels. After a couple of days, though, everything starts to feel normal again. And when you return to Quebec, you'll notice the benefits of your altitude training! After a brief recovery period post-trip, you'll feel lighter and fitter. Of course, the accumulated mileage also plays a role. It wasn't uncommon for us to scale heights of 2500 or 2600m during our rides, so you'll still notice differences in breathing and temperature, which can drop quite sharply.

Yet, high altitude also promises awe-inspiring vistas! It's one of the distinctive joys of cycling in Colombia. Beyond the sense of achievement in conquering each challenge, there's a continuous connection with nature and a gratifying reward in the breath taking views that follow your efforts.

In terms of equipment, we didn't face any notable issues. And on the rare occasion we did, La Ceja boasted numerous bike shops ready to help us out with any requirements. I can wholeheartedly recommend ED BIKE Servicios y Café, managed by an incredibly friendly and professional team!

A Blend of Cycling and Coffee

Speaking of coffee... Are you a coffee enthusiast? Then you're in for a treat! The region is brimming with local producers, ensuring that wherever you go, you're likely to encounter a delightful cup of coffee. Quick tip: make sure to leave some space in your suitcase to bring back your favourite beans when you return from your trip.

When it comes to dining, the affordability of food here is truly remarkable – a fact that holds true even in the more touristy areas. Once you've explored the local haunts, there's nothing quite like indulging in a hearty "menu del dia" (menu of the day). For just a few Canadian dollars, it'll keep you satisfied before or after your bike ride. And don't forget, bakeries and pastry shops along your journey make for excellent pit stops to ward off any hunger pangs."

Off the Beaten Track

If there's one thing to take away from this cycling adventure, it's the unparalleled uniqueness of Colombia. With a keen eye, you'll uncover hidden roads, remote villages, and breath taking landscapes, offering an authentic experience far removed from the traditional tourist circuits.

We can't emphasize this enough, but Colombians possess an unmatched sense of hospitality. Despite our limited level of Spanish, we always managed to make ourselves understood or received assistance when needed. Never once did we feel insecure or encounter any issues that might have hindered our experience. When you travel by bike, it's truly astonishing how effortlessly you can connect with people and forge bonds through unexpected encounters.

Reflecting on an Unforgettable Colombian Cycling Adventure

"The journey to Colombia has truly made a lasting impression—an experience I would wholeheartedly recommend and believe everyone should have in their lifetime. I was captivated by its majestic landscapes, vibrant culture, and the warmth of its people. This cycling expedition allowed me to uncover an authentic side of the country, far from the well-trodden paths: each day brought pleasant surprises, from the stunning scenery to the friendly encounters with locals and the exploration of charming villages.

Even the weather cooperated for the first 6-7 days, with minimal rainfall. While the second week saw a bit more rain, it didn't dampen our spirits one bit. Now, all we can think about is returning to uncover even more of its terrain—perhaps even tackling the Alto de Letras, the longest mountain pass in the world! At 81 kilometres long with a 3600-meter ascent, it's an enticing challenge we're eager to take on.

In the meantime, I encourage you to seize the opportunity to embark on your own cycling adventures and explore new territories. It's a journey that promises not only physical challenges but also one filled with adventure and cultural enrichment. Let's hit the road!"